Bekele Guye, Hafursa Waro Natural, Ethiopia
They say variety is the spice of life, and if there were a coffee to represent this, it would be this high altitude natural process from Bekele Guye, another talented farmer working with the Hafursa Waro washing station.
An established canopy of Sudan Teak and Ethiopian Banana trees (see below) help to maintain the fertile red-brown soil and protect the coffee trees from the sun, wind, and rain you might expect at 2,000m above sea level. The Sudanese Teak trees are a fast growing tropical tree that can grow up to 2-3cm per day and can live for 30-40 years providing a high and dense canopy. Ethiopian Banana plants are much shorter and denser, and produce “enset” which is also known as the ‘false banana’ – they can be harvested and prepared in a porridge like dish known as kocho.
As with our most recent Ethiopian washed coffee from Zekele Beraso, to have complete farm to cup traceability to one farmer is still rare in Ethiopia. As speciality coffee has developed, and the demand for single lot coffees has grown, farmers such as Bekele Guye will grow, harvest and process their own crop before selling to traders around the world. Mr. Guye produces around 2.7 metric tonne per year from his 1.8 hectare, and only a small proportion of this is set aside for ‘natural process’. This year the farm produced 8 sacks, around 500kg.
The density of the green coffee in this lot varies due to the richness of indigenous varietals, meaning keeping the coffee moving at an even rate throughout roasting is essential for consistency within the batch. Our espresso roast applies heat aggressively from start to finish, reaching 249º at the 2 minutes 27 seconds mark and retaining high temperature until the cooling phase at 7 minutes 40 seconds, thus resulting in greater development and deeper flavours in the cup. You should be able to pick out cherries, apricot, milk chocolate with a velvety mouthfeel and a cocoa finish.
The filter recipe follows a very different curve with a longer, cooler drying phase before ramping the heat to at the 2 minute 45 second mark. The remainder of the roast is peaks at 256ºc before entering into the cooling phase at 6 minutes 40 seconds. We found this recipe to result in the ripe peach, stem ginger, black tea, cloudy lemonade with a smooth mouthfeel.